If you think about it it makes no sense to spend 6 bucks a tube when the $1.79 stuff will work just as well, since there is certainly no high pressure or high speed stuff going on in my loader bushings.ĭuring the warranty period especially, I would be real reluctant to use anything that didn't have a direct cross reference to the fluid specified in the owners manual. They need Super UDT which I think is a synthetic blend.įor example, I had been using high temp, high pressure synthetic wheel bearing grease to lube the fittings on my loader and backhoe. That is a lot of money to pay unless you are in Fairbanks.Īs far as I can tell the only tractors out there that require something more than normal tractor hydraulic fluid would be the Kubota BX series.
Last I heard Amsoil synthetic hydraulic fluid was over a hundred bucks for a five gallon pail. But you will pay through the nose for that ability. The only real advantage I can see for synthetic hydraulic oil is it's ability to handle extreme temperature conditions such as operations at -30F. Besides the obvious it must also be compatible with the wet brakes found on most models of tractors. Tractor hydraulic oil has to do a lot of things. The NH multi-grade version of 134D is F200 and your dealer might recommend that if you're in a cold area. Hydraulic oil also comes in multi-weight grades. That may be more for me than for the tractor but it's a good excuse. We have cold winters and I use one that works OK year around but I do avoid doing heavy work on the few very hot days we get.
#2003 new holland tc33d tractor 4x4 diesel manual#
An owner's manual should have a table that gives grades to use for different temperature ranges. It also can be a liability during the winter in places where it gets sub-0F. If 'heavy-duty' refers to 15W-40 grade engine oil, that is a good summer oil for doing heavy work on very hot days. Most times that ends up as the dealer and manufacturer's oil because I like my dealer and I'd just as soon do all my tractor buz in one place. I do what ever is easiest and for the fewest stops when I have to go to town. Few of us are ever going to wear out our engines using any recommended oil provided the maintenance intervals are met and appropriate grades are used. I can't see any big reason to rush into use of a special oil. Of course, both the manufacturers and oil companies are going to try to convince customers that their product is special. Within that there likely are a bunch of products that all work about the same. There are the standards and manufacturer should say which ones are acceptable for their product. I think of oils as pretty universal stuff.
As far as your filter question, I cannot see any reason for changing oil without also changing the filter. The labeled rating should show what testing has been done, any word of mouth claim by ANY Amsoil representative is worthless if not backed in writing. Amsoil can *claim* their products meet or exceed manufacturer requirements, but their claims are worthless if they have not actually submitted their products to the standards organizations for testing. I believe Amsoil makes a fine product, and I have used it with great results in my cars, however if it is not specifically labeled as meeting manufacturer specifications they would have legal grounds to deny any warranty claims that they think are fluid related. Lastly, anyone hear any news on the new FEL for 33d's? Can someone tell me the correct AMSOIL product so I make sure I am buying the correct one?Ģ) Should I run the standard or heavy duty deisel engine oil product?ģ) Do I need to change my hydraulic and hydrostatic filters when I change to the new oil? But I do have some questions.ġ) Can I run the same hydraulic AMSOIL product where ever NH 134 hyrdaulic oil is used? IE power steering, front axle,etc. Does the same hold true for the hydraulics? I have been told previously to not change my TC33D over to synthetic for the engine oil to at least 50 hours have been run.
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